Friday - 27th Jan 2006
Leave Melbourne around 10:30am, leaving Mogwai at home to be picked up in the afternoon by her minders. Drove to Geelong via the West Gate Freeway. Traffic was light. Got a little lost in Geelong (strayed off the main road and ended up at the Botanical Gardens but we didn't stop). Unwittingly ignored a friend's advice and took the first turn off to the Great Ocean Road. Had lunch just after the turn off.
Drove on through to the Great Ocean Road, through Lorne, following various lost looking tourists, most of whom appeared to be taking careful notice of the "Drive on the left in Australia" signs. The view was beautiful, even through the smoke haze (from recent and current bush fires).
Arrived at the motel in Skenes Creek (5km from Apollo Bay) around 2pm. Tiny but comfy room. Walls not too thin. Unfortunately the pipes make a hell of a racket so whenever someone showers, or washed their hands, or had a cup of tea, or went to the toilet we suffered a very loud hiss as the pipes fed them water. Couldn't really recommend the place after that. You get what you pay for and we only wanted a bed.
Drove on to Apollo Bay for a look around. Dullest town in the world it seems, unless you're into owning some sheep, surfing a bit and walking the dog on the beach. Had a lovely walk along the beach, then on to the pub for a couple of drinks. Had dinner at a bistro (the one in the middle of the main street) and had a terrible plate of fish and chips. Back for more walking on the beach, following by sitting and watching the surfers and puppy walkers and playing in the sand.
At some point during Friday we drove the short but exciting single lane to Marriners Lookout above Apollo Bay toward sunset. Only a short walk from the carpark is a grassy hill with a lovely view over Apollo Bay and the surrounding beaches. The sheep are nice company as well. Seemed like a popular place for picnics. We were told by the glow worm tour guide that it used to be the only place with mobile phone reception.
At 10pm we went on a tour to see some glow worms. A nice man from Sunroad Tours picked (just) us up at the Apollo Bay tourist information centre and drove us to a secluded spot on a private property. A short walk in the dark had us squinting at little spots of light on the side of the path. I was expecting caves but random glowiness on the path was good too. The tour manager was pretty good, explaining the differences in the trees where the worms could be found and where they couldn't, as well as pointing out wildlife (some possums).
And it was nice not to be murdered.
Saturday - 28th Jan 2006
Slept in, then off to Georges Food Court in Apollo Bay for a big breakfast of eggs, bacon, sausages, toast, tomato. Fantastic!
Drove to the Otway Fly via the unsealed road route which was fun. The forest looks fantastic with a little mist around.
The Otway Fly seems like a great idea, but I'm not so sure about it after having been there. A series of scafolds in the forest allow you to walk amongst the treetops. Being up high in the trees is a huge thrill. At height you can easily see how much trees sway in the wind. You get a nice view of bird's nests and the effect of insects on the trees, and a fantastic view of the surrounding forest. Unfortunately the whole thing is rather ugly and very noisy. It's designed to sway in the wind, and as a result the guide wires and metal supports are constantly flexing and making metallic ping noises. The noise ruins much of the usual enjoyment of being in a forest. But it's only one forest out of hundreds in the Otways.
The cafe at the Fly is crap, and was mostly ruined by flies (which outside of the city seem to be in plague at the moment) anyway.
From the Fly we drove back to Beauchamp Falls via another unsealed road, but when we got there we decided we were too tired for the 3km downhill (then uphill back) walk to the falls.
So we drove onward to the 12 Apostles. I hadn't been past the Apostles since well before 2000 and since then they have built a large new visitors centre and underpass, keeping the cars and car park well away from the Apostle viewing platforms. Listened to some tourists asking if any work was being done to prevent any of the other Apostles falling over.
Drove back to Apollo Bay via the Great Ocean Road, which for most of the trip from the Apostles was actually inland.
Had dinner at the local fish'n'chips place which was great.
Back to the motel and nosey bloody neighbours (who stuck their nose in to our front door and then chatted about us for a few minutes within clear earshot). Around 1:30am a large group of tourists arrived and spent the next half hour yelling drunkenly outside...
Sunday - 29th Jan 2006
Up early for quick apple breakfast. Fog covered the hills behind the hotel and it was raining steadily. We started driving back through the Otway ranges. The fog and rain made the rainforest look georgeous and it was hard keeping an eye on the road with all the surrounding beauty. All of the lookouts were a write off due to the fog but the forest was amazing enough.
We took a turn off to Stevensons Falls and spent the next 2km on unsealed road in the pouring rain. Some great views along the way of mist/cloud covered mountains. Spotted more than a few kangaroos including a group of about ten. Passed a few depth meters which had us worried my little car wouldn't make it out again. Just before the car park for the falls we came up against a fallen branch someone had cut up partially that we had to drag out of the way. The area of forest just before the falls is stunning. Dark, misty, quiet, like a scene from the original Quest For Glory computer game.
Arriving at the car park we scare off a few other roos and brave the rain to read a notice telling us the bridge over the river is out due to storm damage and we won't be able to see them. We might have braved the river anyway if it wasn't for the sign saying the water can rise quickly and the torential rain. So we drove back to the main road.
After the Otway ranges it seems the road back to Melbourne via this road is dullsville. Cape Otway Rd and the Princes Highway. Cape Otway Rd is straight and 100kmph the whole way. Little traffic. Until we hit the Princes Highway at Winchelsea when the holiday traffic backs up (presume they were coming from Colac). Lots of exhaust sniffing and almost-accident witnessing until Geelong and finally some three lane freeway home.
We dropping in on Werribee Mansion on the way home, having missed it last time we went to the Werribee Zoo. It was a lovely place but I wasn't as impressed as I expected. It seemed a little run down although restoration is on-going. The 150 year old acid etched windows were the highlight for me, as was the Grotto in the lake. And there were a set of panoramic photographs (sticky taped together prints from the 80s and 90s) that I would loved to have thrown at Autostitch.
We got home about 5pm.
The puppy had already been dropped off home when we got back and didn't look anywhere near happy enough to see us. Although throughout the night she spent most of the night on our laps, a sure sign she was happy we were home.
Next holiday will be a week, but we're not sure where.