In nearly all cases we arrived at our destination motel without a booking. We checked availability and reviews on booking.com or TripAdvisor either on arrival in town or the night before if we were feeling organised.
Wednesday - 15th October 2014
Melbourne > Christchurch flight (Air New Zealand, arrive 2pm)
Ajax Car - Ford Focus Trend hatchback (aka "Stupid Fucking Car")
Vodaphone 5Gb plan (no phone or SMS)
Motel: Grange Bed & Breakfast (two nights, pre-booked)
Dinner @ Fiddlesticks
Notes: In hindsight I should have got a 2Gb Vodafone plan with SMS and calls. The 5Gb was data only, so phonecalls were difficult (I used roaming on my existing phone). Even with heavy maps usage I didn't use 2Gb in a month.
Christchurch was still a lot more damaged than expected. Most of the CBD has been removed or is still fenced off. There didn't seem to be any reconstruction yet except of roads/tram-lines.
The Ford was a horrible car with too many problems to list. I'd get a different manufacture car next time for sure.
Thursday - 16th October 2014
Breakfast @ B&B
Lunch @ Botanic Gardens cafe (Ilex)
Dinner @ The Institution
Godela photos
Caterbury Museum photos
Christchurch walk photos
Friday - 17th October 2014
Breakfast @ B&B
Lunch @ Orana Wildlife Park cafe
Motel: Bella Vista Kaikoura
Dinner @ Strawberry Tree, Kairkoura
Orana Wildlife Park photos
Kaikoura views photos
Notes: Our original plan called for us to stay in Christchurch three nights but we decide we've seen enough and can revisit anything we feel we've missed on the return journey.
Saturday - 18th October 2014
Motel: Bella Vista Kaikoura
Lunch @ Craypot
Dinner @ Thai Siam
Seal Rocks video
Ohau Stream Seal pups and waterfall video
Photos
Sunday - 19th October 2014
Motel: Gateway Hotel, Picton
Lunch @ Le Cafe, Picton
Dinner @ Cortado, Picton
Notes: Woke to discover all the windows on the car had been open all night in the rain. This genius car's remote, if unlock is pressed for three seconds, opens all the windows. WHY WOULD YOU EVER NEED THAT?
Monday - 20th October 2014
Motel: Anatoki Lodge Motel, Takaka
Lunch @ Toad Hall @ Motueka
Dinner @ The Brigand, Takaka
Notes: First laundry @ Anatoki Lodge Motel
Tuesday - 21st October 2014
Motel: Anatoki Lodge Motel, Takaka
Lunch @ Collingwood Cafe, Collingwood
Dinner @ The Brigand, Takaka (again)
Wednesday - 22nd October 2014
Motel: Spa Motel, Westport
Lunch @ Commercial Hotel and Cafe, Murchison
Dinner @ Cosmopolitan Hotel, Westport
Thursday - 23rd October 2014
Motel: Bella Vista Westport
Lunch @ Last Resort, Karamea
Dinner @ Denniston Dog Cafe & Bar, Westport
Notes: Woke to discover my glasses were broken and I'd forgotten my spare pair. Visited optometrist in town but they couldn't fix them, had to send away to Christchurch. Fix with sticky-tape in meantime. Later discover it will be a public holiday when we next pass Christchruch so glasses stay fixed with tape for rest of trip.
We changed motels despite staying in Westport. Original plan was to stay in Karamea but decided to make up some time and drive back to Westport. Stayed in Bella Vista instead of Spa Motel as Spa Motel wasn't great.
Friday - 24th October 2014
Lunch @ The Broadway Tearooms and Bakery, Reefton
Motel - Aspen Lodge Motel, Hanmer Springs
Dinner @ Robbie's, Hanmer Springs
Pancake Rocks and Blowhole video
Photos
Notes - We had a bit of snow at Lewis Pass, despite it being 9C. The original plan was to stay at Greymouth but we decided to make up some time and drive on to Hanmer Springs. The drive from Westport to Greymouth is one of the world's best. Unfortunately for us the morning was overcast we we missed the mountain views, but the sea-road was incredible. Lewis Pass more than made up for it for mountain views.
Saturday - 25th October 2014
Motel: Garden Bed & Breakfast, Hokitika
Lunch @ Yellow Shack Cafe, Springfield
Dinner @ Fish & Chips from take-away cnr Gibson Quay/Wharf Street, Hokitika (sitting on river)
Notes: Original plan was to stay in Arthur's Pass but it was looking fairly booked out. We drove on to Hokitika and managed to get one of the only rooms left in town, everything was booked! There was a funeral and I believe it was a public holiday. As a result of our various drives we're now three days ahead.
Sunday - 26th October 2014
Breakfast @ the B&B
Lunch @ Full Of Beans cafe, Franz Josef
Motel: 10 Cottages
Dinner @ Alice May, Franz Josef
Notes: Most (all?) of the other rooms at the motel were booked out by some middle-aged bikers. They spent much of the evening drinking and watching a race on TV. They were mostly in bed by midnight. One drunkenly tried to get into our room at 9pm. Fun times.
Weather was overcast with occasional rain, but the glacier walk was still lovely.
Monday - 27th October 2014
Motel: Lake Matheson Motel, Fox Glacier
Lunch @ Hobnail Cafe, Fox Glacier
Dinner @ Last Kitchen, Fox Glacier
Notes: The weather was a bit overcast during the day, but our motel owner hinted that usually the clouds clear by the end of the day, which they did. She also put us on to Peak View lookout which is definitely worth the drive, as is the beach.
On drive back from the Peak View lookout the first time, we discover couple who's car was stuck in the ditch beside the road (they had tried to turn around). With help of a car full of French people behind us, we manage to get them out with push power and using foot mats as grip.
Tuesday - 28th October 2014
Early Lunch @ Faintail Cafe @ Haast
Late Lunch @ Ritual cafe, Wanaka
Dinner @ Sasanoki Japanese, Wanaka
Motel: Bella Vista Wanaka
Wednesday - 29th October 2014
Lunch @ Puzzling World, Wanaka
Motel: Best Western, Queenstown
Dinner @ Caribe Latin Kitchen
Notes: Snow-chains were needed on the Crown Range Road in the morning, but by lunchtime when we were driving on it they weren't needed any more. We took advantage of a washer to wash clothes and relax a bit in Queenstown.
Thursday - 30th October 2014
Motel: Best Western, Queenstown
Lunch @ Bathhouse, Queenstown
Beer @ Old Man Rock, Queenstown
Dinner @ Hell Pizza, Queenstown
Chiros and hot chocolate @ Caribe, Queenstown
Notes: TSS Earnslaw is a great old ship, but I think they lay on the old-timey fun a bit thick, with the dodgy piano sing-a-longs being unpleasantly cheesy. Thankfully there is plenty to look at out the window to distract.
Friday - 31st October 2014
Breakfast @ A Taste of Gibbston Valley, Arrowtown
Lunch @ Wapiti Cafe & Bakery, Te Anau (horrible, dry venison pie)
Dinner @ Fat Duck, Te Anau
Motel: Alpine View Motel, Te Anau
Saturday - 1st November 2014
Lunch on the Milford Sound cruise
Dinner @ Moose Bar, Te Anau
Photos
Video: Milford Sound cruise
Notes: We needed to be at Milford Sound by 11:30 so we left at 8:15, which got us there an hour early. We didn't get stuck behind any traffic until we started up the mountain toward the tunnel when we were stuck behind a very slow bus. We were warned it could sometimes take 2 and a half hours to drive Milford Road. It was snowing at the tunnel but only a little. The day after Milford Road was closed due to wind.
Sunday - 2nd November 2014
Lunch @ Pop Inn cafe, Te Anau
Dinner @ Ming Garden Chinese, Te Anau
Notes: Left my sunglasses at the Moose Bar. Attempted to get them back but it seems a customer found them. Bought new ones at the local sports store.
Monday - 3rd November 2014
Lunch on Doubtful Sound cruise
Dinner @ Fiordland Friendly Pizzeria, Te Anau
Photos
Video: Doubtful Sound
Tuesday - 4th November 2014
Lunch @ Orepuki Beach Cafe, Orepuki
Dinner @ Saucy Chef, Invercargill
Motel: Queens Park Motel, Invercargill
Notes: It was less than 4C over the pass after Manapouri. It was apparently 0C the next day. At the Invercargill I bought a 12 pack of Purple Goanna. My friends and I lived on the stuff back in 2000 and they discontinued it in Australia. It is still available in New Zealand but only in 12 packs and only in Liquorland.
Wednesday - 5th November 2014
Lunch @ Whistling Frog, McLean Falls
Motel: Helensborough Motor Inn @ Balclutha
Dinner @ The Captains Cafe, Balclutha
Notes: The original intention was to make it to Dunedin but we ended up rooming in Balclutha after not wanting to drive any further. We checked online and discovered that Dunedin was booked out for the weekend due to Rugby. We intended to stay there four nights but pre-book two and plan to come back later.
Thursday - 6th November 2014
Motel: Pacific Park Suites, Dunedin
Lunch @ No 7 Balmac, Dunedin
Dinner @ Miga, Dunedin
Notes: We arrived at Dunedin around 10am and Pacific Park Suites very nicely let us check in early so we could do some washing. Their cleaning staff also found us a clothes-airer. All very nice. It seems the pastime for bored kids in Dunedin is setting off fireworks. Both lookouts were littered with spent fireworks, and while at Signal Hill some kids set off fireworks in front of us. During the day. Dickheads.
Friday - 7th November 2014
Lunch @ Otago Museum, Dunedin
Dinner @ No 7 Balmac, Dunedin
Saturday - 8th November 2014
Lunch @ Cafe Rossi, Alexandra
Motel: Kurow Motel, Kurow
Dinner @ Waitaki Hotel, Kurow
Notes: We had to leave Dunedin as all accommodation was booked out due to the rugby, so we went on a drive to Lindis Pass. Intended to stay in Cromwell but it was also booked out due to a market.
Sunday - 9th November 2014
Lunch @ Woolstore Cafe, Oamaru
Dinner @ India Garden, Oamaru
Motel: Bella Vista Oamaru
Photos
Video: Yellow-eyed penguin coming ashore at Bushy Beach
Monday - 10th November 2014
Lunch @ Orokonui EcoSanctuary cafe, Dunedin
Motel: Portobello Motel
Dinner @ 1908 Cafe, Portobello
Tuesday - 11th November 2014
Breakfast @ Penguin Cafe, Portobello
Lunch @ Larnach Castle cafe
Dinner @ Portobello Hotel
Photos
Video: Penguin Place
Notes: Very happy to see a Yellow-Eyed Penguin sitting on and feeding her chicks at Penguin Place. Highcliff Road is a bit terrifying. Very narrow, but people drive on it like it is a freeway. Watch out on the corners. It hailed while we were on the Penguin Place tour, but this meant the penguins and seals all came out and played. It was lovely.
Wednesday - 12th November 2014
Lunch @ Mitch's? cafe, Timaru
Motel @ Lake Tekapo Scenic Resort
Dinner @ Kohan Japanese, Lake Tekapo
Notes: It was a little cloudy all day, but as we were having dinner it snowed briefly but heavily, then the skies cleared, giving us lovely views of snow-covered mountains.
Thursday - 13th November 2014
Breakfast @ Run 77 Cafe, Lake Tekapo
Lunch @ The Old Mountaineers Cafe, Mount Cook Village
Motel @ Aoraki Court Motel, Mount Cook Village
Dinner @ Backpackers, Mount Cook Village
Notes: Tried to get a helicopter trip from Lake Tekapo but were told it was too windy to go over mountain divide. We drove to Mount Cook just to look around and again tried to get a helicopter ride but again were told it was still too windy. We decide to stay the night in Mount Cook, take a few walks and go on the Glacier Explorers trip. We pre-book the helicopter ride for 9am just in case the weather is better.
Friday - 14th November 2014
Breakfast @ The Old Mountaineers Cafe, Mount Cook Village
Lunch @ Valley Brewing Company, Geraldine
Dinner @ Thai, Ashburton
Motel: Bella Vista Ashburton
Photos
Videos: Heliworks Helicopter Ultimate flight
Notes: Woke to a message from our house/dog-sitter informing us that our house had been robbed, which really took the shine off the day. In the end the burglar caused more damage and stress than they stole. but we didn't know that at the time. A helicopter ride over the New Zealand alps was about all that could have distracted us, and it worked.
It turned out the weather was perfect so we took the 9am helicopter ride before breakfast, having breakfast when done, then driving to Ashburton. Again we intended to stay somewhere else but just decided to keep driving until we were over it.
Saturday - 15th November 2014
Lunch @ Little River Diner, Little River
Dinner @ Burgers and Beer, Christchurch
Motel: Cranford Oak Motel, Christchurch
Notes: Very windy night the night before with our motel windows whistling loudly most the night. Very interesting to see the difference a month and summer season makes on Christchurch. Lots of construction had begun, and the streets were full, especially New Regent Street. Christchurch Botanic Gardens looked very different too, with the Spring plantings removed and the Summer plantings in. The roses were goin' off!
Sunday - 16th November 2014
Lunch @ Willowbank Wildlife Reserve cafe
Photos: Willowbank Wildlife Reserve
Photos: Views of New Zealand from the plane