1300km, 1000 photos.
Tuesday - 16th February 2010
Spirit of Tasmania
Due on the boat around 6 so most of the day spent getting ready, dropping off the dog at the kennel and freaking out about going on holidays.
Didn't enjoy putting the dog in the kennel, particularly as we had to take her collar off, but they seem nice...
Finally get to the Ferry (Spirit of Tasmania II) at a bit past 5 and get in line, waiting for 6 and doors open. We drive in not long after 6, taking our place on one of the lower levels. Driving down a hole in the floor is an interesting experience. There is a lot more room to park than I expected.
We get room 8009, right near the front, with a window. The rooms (a twin) is both smaller and bigger than I expected. The window is much bigger than I thought it would be. Pity about the separate beds.
We wander around, drink beer, read tourist pamphlets. We go to the rear of the boat to watch Melbourne disappear until sunset.
Dinner at the bistro is basic but not terrible. We go up to Level 9 to look at the lights, then up to Level 10, with only a couple of other people and watch Top Gear until we get closer to the heads. It is insanely windy outside, but it clearly gets much much worse as the boat is going very slow.
We watch as we go through the heads around 10. The rocking increases almost instantly, as does the wind.
We have a cup'o'tea on Level 7 then go back to our rooms at 10:30.
The vibrations are initially more annoying than any waves. I didn't take any seasickness pills, but I woke in the middle of the night feeling off so I took some then.
What they don't tell you in the adverts is that if you drive, you need to get up at the crack of dawn (around 6) to go move your car. Hardly holiday fun.
Wednesday - 17th February 2010
Devonport to Strahan
Katie's up at 5 to watch the Devonport lights. It's raining.
We get our wake-up call at 5:40, "leaving from 6.20 please".
We have breakfast (continental) on Level 7, then shower and dress. Coffee, muesli bars. We get called at 6:40.
It's weirdly hot in the cargo bay. Driving up a big ramp less freaky than driving into a hole.
Not long after 7 we're out, through customs and driving on B19 to Forth, then C132 to Craddle Mountain. We stop on the way a few times to look at the insanely awesome scenery. It really is a stunning place. Mountains in every vista.
Road kill everywhere. Big road kill. Huge posseums, kangaroos, large birds.
We buy a map and have a pasty at the Craddle Mountain info centre and ask advice on good walks for "someone with three hours to spare". It is suggested we take the walk to Marion's Lookout.
We drive to the ticket centre, have a quick look at Pencil Pine falls, then drive up to park at Ronny Creek.
We walk from there to Marion's Lookout. The walk starts with a nice flat boardwalk, then to some stairs through a forest beside a river, up more stairs, finally to Crater Lake. Crater Lake is gorgeous. Past Crater Lake, up a slopped path, past a few insane people who had been walking for days along the Overland Track. The finally part of the walk is a near vertical, helped with chains in the rocks to hold on to. We almost give up but trust the "10 minutes to go" signs. The lookout is stunning. Amazing. Well worth the climb. An 80+ year old woman practically runs past us while we nurse our wounds.
I fall over taking a photo and smash my shin. Thankfully not too badly but it is bruised for weeks. I can't imagine what the climb down would have been like if I'd actually hurt myself.
We stupidly went down the Lake Dove side of the mountain on the way down. Again, nearly vertical, only for much further. Feet are killing me toward the end.
Well worth all the pain though. Overall the walk up and down took about 3 and a half hours.
Take the bus back to the car from Dove Lake.
Drive to Tullah and have late lunch at a scary little cafe filled with mining history and craft.
Drive to Strahan via Zeehan. We'd heard that Strahan had more rainfall than anywhere in Tasmania, and on cue as we near it starts to pour. It's beautiful though driving between mountains on an empty road.
Strahan at 4. We check in to Strahan Village. The rooms are basic but large and warm. The corridor between then all is like some kind of horrible hospital.
Can't get any phone reception.
We go for a walk to Hogarth Falls and back (40 minutes). We buy some wine (Holm Oak Cab Merlot) and order some Pizza at Wild Rivers (Thai Spiced Chicken) and take the lot back to our room around 7.30.
We're exhausted and fall asleep watching TV.
Thursday 18th February 2010
Strahan to Hobart
We have breakfast at 9 at the restaurant at our motel.
We drop by the Water Tower Hill Lookout on the way out of town, then drive to Queenstown.
More famously beautiful vistas the whole way. Slowed down by tourists driving Winnebagos and towing caravans. Almost no other kinds of vehicles on the roads, but we do pass a few cyclists, and are passed by more than a few speeding motorcyclists.
We stop in Queenstown, and drive up to Spion Kop Lookout and take a few photos. The utter destruction of the landscape to the north east of Queenstown is devastating, but the views in other directions are gorgeous.
We drive the A10, stop off at Lake Burbury (which appears suddenly to our left as we drive around a hill) and later stop at Lake St. Clair for lunch.
Further on to New Norfolk (no word on what happened to the old one). We walk around town looking at antiques, which were generally disappointing. I'm think we're more interested in brick-a-brak, while in Tasmania, "antique" means exactly what it probably should... one hundred year old furniture and plates. Yawn.
We drive into Hobart just in time to hit their peak hour. I miss the turn, get stuck on their awful one-way highway through town, eventually turning off at a random park, driving around one-way hell until I find our B+B, Corinda's Cottages.
After an introduction to our 150 year old room with our fabulously nice hosts, we walk down to the Drunken Admiral for dinner. We have a fantastic time, eating local salmon (cooked in various Japanese/Vietnamese styles) and drinking Armagnac that was nearly as old as I was (Comte de Lamaestre 1979). The Drunken Admiral is a busy and cramped place, decorated like the inside of a ship with lots of wood, ropes and other cheesy stuff. The gimmick is silly but fun, and the food was amazing.
We get back to our room around 10, more than a little drunk.
The streets of Hobart at night are empty. Not even zombies.
Our room was previously the servants quarters for the main house and comes complete with 150 year old toilet that used approximately twenty baths to flush and lovely old floors prewarn by millions of footsteps. Due to some miscommunication they think one of us requires gluten free food so we have gluten free muesli (quite nice) and gluten free bread (revolting) waiting for our breakfast. The fridge is also stocked with beer and wine.
Friday 19th February 2010
Hobart
We drive over the Tasman bridge and take the A3 then A6 to the Tasmanian Devil Park, just before Port Arthur.
We get there just in time to see a feeding, although it is a little disappointing as the devils all take a piece and run off... no feeding frenzy.
The park is fantastic, with multiple large areas, and lots of animals. We watch a little ball of baby quolls, wallabies, various birds and of course devils. There's even a nice little walk down to the water.
We get to Port Arthur around 1 and have lunch. We take the 2:30 boat tour around the islands, then wander over to the research centre to look up a relative. We then take the 3:30 walking tour.
The walking tour informs us that in the past, when Port Arthur closed, they changed it's name and tried to erase the past, pretending it wasn't the hell-hole that it was. It is only recently that it's history has been celebrated. Interesting too, in that context, that there is no mention of the 1996 massacre except a small memorial on the lower floor of the main building...
Port Arthur is interesting, and the recent renovations are good, but it doesn't blow our minds. It's a beautiful area, although I suspect it is freezing in winter.
Very popular with tourists though. Surprisingly difficult to get a park.
We leave around 5. The ticket lets you in for two days, but we have plenty other things to do and don't return.
On the way back to Hobart we visit Tasman Arch and Devil's Kitchen, the Blowhole (in Doo Town) and the Tessellated Pavement (aliens, definitely aliens). We're back by 7.
We walk to Sushi Bar on Victoria Dock, just across from the Drunken Admiral and have a platter for two and two Moo Brew Pilsner.
After dinner we walk up and down Maquaree for a bit then down the mall and back through the pedestrian tunnel under the main road, then back to the Bed'n'Breakfast.
A few Tassie/Hobart notes:
Saturday 20th February 2010
Hobart
About 9am we walk to Salamanca Market. While it is one of the better markets I've been to, it really wasn't all that existing. How many crappy crafts, expensive photos of cities and weird sausages can people take?
We wander around the buildings near the market, then walk around Battery Point, through Princes Park then back to our B+B.
Drive to Royal Botanical Gardens via various lookouts on the way. The Botanical Gardens are awesome. We have lunch at the main restaurant in the middile, then visit Pete's Garden (from Gardening Australia) , the Japanese Garden etc. We marvel at the bumble bees!
Back to the B+B about 3pm to get jackets, then drive up Mount Wellington.
The top of Mt. Wellington is busy and very windy, but not as cold as advertised, although it was one of the hottest days Hobart gets (30C). Incredible view, Mt. Wellington is VERY high.
We drive down the mountain, then around Hobart's suburbs, aiming high, and taking some photos from the hillier suburbs.
Back to the B+B after driving around Gleeb, watch TV, have tea.
Drive to the 9-11 bottle shop and get some Moo Brew Heffer and Moo Brew Dark Ale, Iron House Heff and some Huan Dark Ale. All lovely, except the Huan, which I fear may have been off as it tasted very wrong.
We drove and bought fish+chips at Fish Frenzy on recommendation. Very very busy place, billed as the "best in the city" but in reality it was pretty rubbish.
Sunday 21st February 2010
Hobart to Launceston
We leave at 9:45, the host opens the gate for us and says goodbye. Amazing place, will happily stay there again.
We drive to Richmond and park at the toilets at the Town Hall. We walk around... we'd been told there would be antiques but we hardly found anything. The bridge (oldest in Tasmania) is lovely, but the very very trusting ducks who live under it are more fun. All shapes and sizes, putting up with tourists almost stepping on them. Baby ducks. Much fun.
We drive on, stopping in Ross for lunch (pasties). There is a market on but we don't look. We walk the main street, look around antiques and lolly shops. Another nice old bridge and a fantastic old church on the hill.
We drive on the Launceston and check-in to our hotel about 3pm (Werona Heritage B&B). Terrifying hill roads, all very steep, and not much room to park. Amazing place, huge room with massive ceilings. Love it. Great view over the river and town.
We walk down to the city around 4pm. Walk down the street, over King's Bridge. The gorge looks incredible, we plan to visit tomorrow. Very few people walking, and not much traffic. Lots of hotted up yoof mobiles around. Most kids have skateboards or scooters. All the kids are dressed like it's 1999.
We walk on to City Park just in time to watch the FREE MONKEYS being put away. We walk through to Black? Bridge to the Museum (also just shutting), walk along a nice boardwalk and on to the waterfront. A nice kid asks us "howsitgoin!hahaha", followed by what was probably his brother also asking, in a perfect impression of his mate, "howsitgoin!hahaha". Lovely people.
Have dinner at Waterfront restaurant. Katie has the Trevalla while I have the tuna and have some Henessey VSOP brandy. Very nice food, glad we didn't judge the book by it's cover.
We walk back to the B&B and sit in the garden and have some tea. We watch the sun go down from our balcony.
Monday 22nd February 2010
Launceston
Up early (8:15) for the breakfast part of B&B. The B&B is very beautiful, a very old building recently renovated. The hosts are lovely, but they are selling up.
We talk to an Adelaide couple at breakfast, we've stolen their favourite room. They've visited Tassie six times. They recommend some cliffs on the way to Mole Creek.
We walk down to Cataract George. Cataract George indescribable. Google it. Amazing. We stop at the Rotunda and have a drink, then take the chairlift over the lake. We walk to the old power station up the river which takes about 100 minutes. We have lunch at the restaurant by the lake and watch the rain. After lunch we walk across the bridge then walk back to the car.
On the way back to the car we stop a couple of wild wallabies and point them out to some German tourists who will now love us forever.
We walk back to the car, then drive to City Park to look at the Tasmanian Design Centre and Free Monkeys. We have a walk around the city, down Centre Way and Quadrant and look at Antique shops. We drive around some more. We see what seems to be a huge fire but what turns out to be someone burning rubbish by the river. We end up at the George chairlift carpark, then drive back to our room. The roads around our B&B (on the west side of the river) are very very steep.
We look through the various options for dinner and decide on quick&easy so we drive to Dave's Noodles and have take away noodles sitting in the a little food court (Marty's Food Hall).
Back to the room by 9pm.
Port!
Tuesday 23rd February 2010
Launceston to Devonport
Breakfast and out by 9ish. Take the B54 to Alum Cliffs (the cliffs recommended by the Adelaide couple). A short 1km walk through bush to a sudden wooden platform looking over an amazing vista of river, bush and cliffs. Loved it.
Drive to Marakoopa Caves and book in for the 12pm tour (which turns out to be the glow worms tour, there are two tours of the caves for its two main parts). The caves are amazing. A tourist in the group is claustrophobic but manages not to panic. Why she came on a cave tour I'll never know.
We drive to Sheffield via the C138 to have a look at some lookouts (Olivers Lookout). We have lunch in Sheffield at the Highland Cafe which came with free old guy playing mini bagpipes. The bagpipes sounded like really bad computer music. The walls of the place included tartan from all the Scottish clans. I found ours (Bowies are part of the MacDonald clan). The cafe also included free floor gecko.
We end up back in Devonport at 3:30. We can't get on the boat until 6. We discover an Antiques Emporium and have a look around there. It's large and full of crap. Loved it. It also have a massive fake pirate boat with life size plaster pirates to laugh at.
We drive around town a bit, eventually stopping to buy some water and magazines, then get in line for the boat at 5pm.
The car ends up right next to the kennels so we have a look at the poor dogs for a bit, the go up to our room.
We get room 8211. We deliberately picked an inside room for the way back. The inside rooms have four beds, which has us panicking for a bit but we find a note saying "for the purposes of this booking" it was only for two. Yay. This also meant extra pillows, towels, soap. The supplied pillows are dreadful so two really helped.
We book the restaurant (Seasons) for 7:40 and have a walk around. The food is fantastic, well worth the booking. Wish we'd had this food on the way in as the Bistro is rubbish.
We watch Tassie float away from the top level, then go back to our room at 9pm. I take the seasick pills early this time.
Wednesday - 24th February 2010
We get up before 5 to watch Melbourne arrive. Very cold. We're out of the boat by 6:30 and off to pick up the dog. Faith No More tomorrow!